to catch up my immense following (aka about 3-5 people, most of which are obligated out of familial relation or so bored with reading about the economy that they have no other op-ed entertainment options) on the week i've just spent in portugal is quite a daunting task so i am defaulting to recounting random moments that have transpired since i left madrid for the exotic coast of big butts (cu) and bacalhau (cod).
lisbon, oh, lisbon. what a beautiful city you are. i arrived in the evening, so my first view of the skyline, streets, arches, and cafes was aided by a magnificent illumination. the roofs and the river, reflecting the moon and the modern light bulbs in ancient fixtures. met up with my first couchsurf host, sergio, who you've already heard about, got situated, drank some vinho verde, ate some rice and seafood (aka portuguese paella, more or less), and headed downtown to a couchsurf event in the alfama area. on our way, we grabbed a pastel de nata which portugal is famous for--pastry shell filled with some kind of egg custard that is heavenly. we got to the meet-up and, at first i was just chilling with sergio as an observer, as everyone seemed to know each other, but within minutes i was schmoozing, drinking caipirinhas, dancing with former strangers--some portugese, some imports.
the day that followed (saturday), sergio needed to work so we both left the house early and i had the whole day to kill before meeting back up with him in the evening. i walked around alfama, went in some shops, ate a huge piece of bread stuffed with chorizo and cheese (there are about six pastry shops on each block so it's hard to know which one is most deserving of my business, but i go with my gut) and then took a train out to the beach. i dont know that i've beached solo many times in my life; its an interesting experience. everyone around (adorable children with bellies that stick out, old ladies who wear swim attire much too sexy for their age and shape, etc) is loud and playful, sharing ice cream and laughs, and i am lying there, on my little towel with some uber-american phrase on it, trying not to get sand in my sandwich.
but the beach was stellar. after a week of dry madrid, i needed to see and feel the water. i went to estoril which is just a bit outside of lisbon proper but still within what they call "big lisbon", the equivalent of LA county, i suppose. after a few solid hours of sun, sweat, saltwater, and sunscreen, i headed across the street to walk through a huge park that serves as the front yard for a casino.
though sergio was a gracious host, i felt it was time to switch things up and meet some new people. one guy i had met at the couchsurf event on friday had told me he'd be going to the beach (a different one) on sunday, so i met up with him and a few others there. after some volleyball, sunset, late-night dip in the freezing atlantic, i opted to move my backpack to a new location---ricardo's.
i ended up extending my stay in lisbon to enjoy more of the city and be around for the birthday of a young dutch singer visiting from ibiza. what followed was a lot more of me loving lisbon: train trips, shopping centers too large to comprehend, food and wares so cheap that i couldn't help but consume, a new friend's house in cascais which is essentially part of a resort, live music at night and people standing in the streets with their own booze while a trash truck pushes through the crowd. endless. how about some photos? sure, ok.
after parting ways with lisbon, i took a train ( i love train rides! i do.) up north to porto. i was welcomed by igor, who showed me his huge apartment that he shares with an italian guy and a portuguese girl. we then went for a coffee in a nearby plaza and then went for a quick city tour before he had to go to work.
in the evening, his italian roommate took me along to a dinner party down the road which started around midnight. fun people from all over and delicious food--fried sardines, sauteed mushrooms with bread, cheese and arugula. on our way back to the house it started pouring rain though of course my until-then-unused rain jacket was still at the house as i had not expected such a turn by the two-faced weather. the next day, igor took me for a walk all around town and down to the river, which seems to be the pride of porto, and rightfully so. then i went on a solo mission, found a cute cafe and ordered some lunch (having no idea what the menu items meant, i asked them what was best, they pointed, and i said ok, ill have that). it ended up being rabbit, i think, with a mushroom wine sauce, rice, fries, and salad. all for 3.85E. WTF, score! i cant be too sure, but i think i may have eaten a rabbit penis. this came cheaper than the price of a local (insanely unattractive) street hooker, but not by much. they line the streets in some areas and, the word is, one can be yours (in the biblical sense) for the low, low price of 15E. ill stick with thumper's thumper, thank you.
after that, i did a little quick shopping (a shirt for 2E, a dress for 4E) and then headed to meet nuno, an adorable, young couchsurf connection for a coffee, walk, and a visit to the local supermarket for a 1E bottle of wine. in the evening, the italian cooked up some polenta and meat sauce and we dined with some other international imports, and then went for a walk around town in the drizzle.
all in all, my visit to porto was quick but well worth it. i would certainly go back for more adventures. best to leave me wanting more so, well played, you quaint portuguese town, you.
i am now in the middle of my first full day in barcelona. i am heading to the beach to meet some san francisco friends for some sun before the eventual sporadic rain hits. i am still getting acquainted with this city, but excited to have a lot of time here to do my own exploring before the santa cruz boys invade, though i cant wait for that. because they are crazy. crazy good.
please don't write me off if i don't write soon enough. internet is not a steady resource for me and anyway, if i am inside on the lappy all the time, what will i have to tell you about? i must get out there and run amok.
.love from b a r c e l o n a.
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